How to Make a Time Lapse Video. Gear, Settings & Editing.

Published: June 20, 2024

A time-lapse video is a sequence of images captured at set intervals over a period, then played back at a higher speed to show changes occurring over time, such as the movement of clouds or stars or the growth of plants. The possibilities are endless.

This article will guide you through the basics of creating a timelapse video, from what gear you need to camera settings and editing.

What you need to Capture a Timelapse

There are some basic things you need to capture time-lapses:

Stabilization

You need to ensure your camera stays in the same position at times. A sturdy tripod usually does the trick and lets you position your camera optimally. However, you can use what’s around you – a big rock fx.

You can combine this with a motorized slider if you have the means. I use one from Edelkrone that can be programmed for speed and angle. This can introduce some nice parallax to the footage. But it’s more of a luxury and definitely not a need to have.

You can also consider a motorized tripod pan head that lets you do panoramas and time-lapse pans.

Built-in Camera Functions

Many modern cameras come with built-in time-lapse functions that let you set the intervals and lengths in the camera.

Tip: If you can’t set your exposure time to fx longer than 1 second, you might need to switch from electronic shutter to mechanical mode. On some cameras (like the Panasonic Lumix series), there’s a limit to the exposure time when the software handles the shutter time—changing this to mechanical fixes this problem.

Manual Intervalometers

If your camera doesn’t have an in-built timelapse function, you need a manual intervalometer, which can trigger the camera’s shutter at set intervals. This often comes with a cable, so you won’t accidentally bump into your camera or move it if you pause and begin the time-lapse again.

Tip: You don’t need to purchase the name-brand ones, which are often very expensive. You can get great no-name intervalometers that do the same job just fine at a fraction of the price.

Software Applications

Some cameras let you compile and render the timelapse on the spot. However, this is often done from jpegs. If you want to get the most out of your images, you must transfer the raw files to your computer, where you can edit the photos and create the final timelapse.

Here’s a good tutorial on how to do it in Lightroom and After Effects or Premiere Pro:

Many video editing and photo editing apps and software can create timelapses and hyperlapses.

Camera Settings for Timelapses

When shooting a time-lapse video, the first thing to know is to stay off auto. Auto modes on the camera will not give you a consistent result, which is key for a good-looking time-lapse.

Instead, the choice comes down to one of these three modes: shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual mode. What you should use depends on the lighting conditions and what look you want to achieve:

• Manual Mode: Often the best choice for time lapse videos as it ensures consistent exposure, depth of field, and motion blur, provided the lighting conditions are stable.
• Aperture Priority: Useful if maintaining a consistent depth of field is critical and some variation in motion blur is acceptable.
• Shutter Priority: Can be used when you need consistent motion blur, but be mindful of varying depth of field.
• Auto Mode: Don’t! Just don’t!

Let’s break them down in more detail below.

Shutter Priority (Tv or S Mode)

You set the shutter speed, and the camera automatically adjusts the aperture for proper exposure.

Pros: Control over motion blur: You can set a long shutter speed for smooth motion blur or a fast shutter speed for sharp, crisp images. It is useful in scenes with changing light where you want consistent motion blur.

Cons: Depth of field can change: Since the camera adjusts the aperture, the depth of field may vary between shots, which can be noticeable in a time-lapse. There is also a risk of over- or underexposure if the camera cannot find an appropriate aperture setting.

Aperture Priority (Av or A Mode)

You set the aperture, and the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed for proper exposure.

Pros: You have control over the depth of field. You can set a wide aperture for a shallow depth of field or a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field. The depth of field is consistent across shots. I find this the most useful mode for shooting day-to-night or night-to-day time lapses – especially on smaller sensor cameras.

Cons: Shutter speed can vary, leading to inconsistent motion blur, which might look erratic in a time-lapse video. Risk of over- or underexposure in changing light conditions if the camera cannot find an appropriate shutter speed.

Manual Mode (M Mode)

You manually set the shutter speed and aperture, offering full control over exposure settings.

Pros: Full control: You can achieve consistent exposure, depth of field, and motion blur across all frames in the time-lapse. Ideal for static lighting conditions: Ensures the exposure remains the same, providing a smooth and professional look.

Cons: It requires constant adjustments. If lighting conditions change, you must manually adjust settings, which can be time-consuming. Also, a higher skill level is needed since a good understanding of exposure settings is required to achieve desired results.

Shutter Speed, Frame Rates, and Interval Settings

The optimal settings for shutter speed and frame rates can vary depending on the subject and lighting conditions, but here are some general guidelines to help you get started:

Frame Rate

The most common frame rates for playback are 24 fps (frames per second) or 30 fps. This means that if you want one second of video, you need 24 or 30 frames (photos).

Tip: I can’t recommend you go down to something like 12 or 15 fps since it will look very jerky. If your time-lapse is too short, you’ll get a better result by rendering it at 24 fps. Then, reimport the video into your editing software and slow the video speed. Experiment with the different modes: frame sampling, frame blending, or optimal flow. I usually find one of the first two works best.

Shutter Speed

The shutter speed should double the frame rate for natural motion blur. If your playback frame rate is 24 fps, the shutter speed should be around 1/48 seconds. If your playback frame rate is 30 fps, the shutter speed should be around 1/60 seconds.

However, for time-lapses, since you’re capturing still frames over a period of time, you can adjust the shutter speed to achieve different effects:

Daytime Time-Lapse: Use a faster shutter speed to avoid overexposure, especially in bright conditions. Shutter speeds between 1/100 and 1/2000 seconds are common.

Night Time-Lapse: Use a longer shutter speed to capture more light. Shutter speeds of 1 to 30 seconds are typical, depending on the available light. See the more detailed section below.

Motion Blur: For smoother motion blur (e.g., flowing water, moving clouds), use a longer shutter speed. Depending on your desired effect, this can be from 1/4 to several seconds. To avoid over-exposure, use an ND filter.

Interval Settings

Fast-Moving Subjects (e.g., crowds, traffic): Capture more frequently, with 1 to 3 seconds intervals.

Slow-Moving Subjects (e.g., clouds, stars): Longer intervals, typically between 5 and 30 seconds, can be used.

Very Slow Changes (e.g., construction, plant growth): Intervals can range from minutes to hours, depending on the duration of the event and the final video length.

Example Scenarios

Here are some basic settings for three different scenarios to get you started.

• Cityscape During Daytime (manual, aperture, or shutter priority mode)
  • Frame Rate: 24 fps
  • Shutter Speed: 1/50 seconds
  • Interval: 2-5 seconds

• Night Sky/Star Trails* (manual mode)
  • Frame Rate: 24 fps
  • Shutter Speed: 15-30 seconds
  • Interval: 15-30 seconds

*Notice that making a time-lapse of the night sky is a whole subject, and the settings depend on the sensor size, the focal length, and the result you want to achieve.

For example, do you want to capture long, blurry star trails that look like shooting stars? Or do you want to capture the stars as single points of light or the Milky Way moving across the sky? In any case, knowing the 500 rule is key to getting good results.

• Sunset/Sunrise (manual mode or aperture priority)
  • Frame Rate: 24 fps
  • Shutter Speed: 1/30 to 1/100 seconds
  • Interval: 5-10 seconds

How to Shoot and Edit a Hyperlapse Video

Shooting and editing a hyperlapse (a timelapse where the camera moves) slightly differs from shooting and editing a timelapse. Mostly because you have to move the camera for each shot, and there’s usually some stabilization or tracking done in the editing process. Here’s a great tutorial that shows you the entire process:

Closing Thoughts

So, to sum up:

1. Choose a stable camera setup to avoid shake
2. Use manual settings (or shutter/aperture priority mode) to maintain consistent exposure
3. Select an appropriate interval between shots based on the subject’s movement.

Also, ensure sufficient battery life (use a power bank or battery pack for longer shoots) and storage. And plan for changing light and weather conditions.

Up Next: What is Hyperfocal Distance?